Frequently Asked Questions - E-Bikes

There’s no single “best” e-bike — because the right choice depends on your riding style, budget, and daily needs.

There are a growing range of e-bike brands and models, from urban commuters to cargo haulers to full-suspension trail bikes. The key is finding one that’s:

• Comfortable for your body and height
• Suited to your terrain (hills? trails? city streets?)
• Backed by solid warranty, support, and reliability
• Within your budget for both the bike and future repairs

Before you buy: Visit a few local bike shops and try out different styles.  There are many variants, like step-through vs. traditional frames, mid-drive vs. hub motors, and how far you want to go before charging. E-bikes are a significant investment, and a good test ride makes all the difference.  You'll also want to know how to get it serviced if anything goes wrong!

It depends.  No one can speak to any one brand or store, and every e-bike has its own build quality, warranty terms, and support system.

Here are a few questions every buyer should ask:

• Who handles the warranty? The store or the manufacturer?
• What happens if it needs a repair? Can your local shop service it?
• Are parts like the battery or controller replaceable and available?
• What are the online reviews looking like for this Brand and E-bike?  Has there been enough time to get reviews in?

E-bikes are complex machines, with electrical and mechanical components that work together. A low-cost or online purchase might seem like a deal.  But if it breaks and no one can fix it, it may become expensive very quickly.

Smart shopping tip: Always review the warranty terms, after-sale service, and repair process before you buy, whether it’s from Costco, a bike shop, or a direct-to-consumer brand.

In Canada, legal e-bikes are limited to 500W,  32 km/h with motor assist, and pedals.  Anything faster or more powerful than this is not legally an e-bike.

However, you CAN find electric bikes online that claim speeds of 50–100+ km/h, powered by massive 1000W to 10,000W motors.  So what are they?

In most cases, they are not safe.  Here's why:

A motorcycle capable of 120 km/h, like a Honda CBR125, is a fully certified road vehicle. It has:

• Advanced suspension and braking systems
• DOT-rated tires
• Full crash safety testing
• A VIN, license plate, and regulated insurance
• Regulations on what you need to wear, including a DOT Motorcycle helmet.

In contrast:

• An e-bike frame advertised to go the same speed may be a lightweight, tubular bicycle chassis, never designed to handle that level of power or impact.  It also has no regulatory oversight.

Doing motorcycle speeds on a bicycle frame puts your health, liability, and safety entirely at risk.

If you have one, they can only be used:

• Private property only, unless registered as a motor vehicle
• Not allowed on bike paths, multi-use trails, or roads without proper classification
• You may be ticketed, fined, or denied insurance coverage in the event of an accident

The controller is the brain of your E-Bike. It manages how power flows from the battery to the motor based on what you (the rider) are doing, as well as controlling other electric parts of the E-Bike.  It can often have a method of connection (like Bluetooth), although sometimes that is a separate IOT module.

To control the motor, it interprets signals from:

• Throttle or pedal sensors (how hard you're pushing or how fast you're pedalling) 
• Brakes (to cut motor power when braking)
• Battery (to monitor voltage and protect the system)

Then it adjusts the motor output in real time to give you smooth, responsive assistance.

Not exactly. While e-bike controllers may look similar, they're not universally compatible. Each controller is designed to match specific:

• Motor types and configurations (windings, wattage, and more)
• Voltage levels (e.g., 36V, 48V, 52V)
• Connector types (wiring matters!)
• Sensor systems (like cadence or torque sensors)

Using the wrong controller could damage your motor, battery, or create unsafe riding conditions.

Before attempting to swap controllers, consult with your e-bike manufacturer or service tech.

No.  Because E-Bike controllers are not the same (see above), using the wrong controller could damage your motor, battery, or create unsafe riding conditions.

Before attempting to swap controllers, consult with your e-bike manufacturer or service tech.

In most cases, you don’t choose the controller — the manufacturer does. That’s because the controller is carefully selected to match the motor, battery, frame design, and performance expectations of a specific e-bike model.

For example:

• A light city commuter needs a controller optimized for efficiency and smooth pedal assist.
• A cargo e-bike requires a more powerful controller to handle heavy loads and torque demands.
• A touring e-bike may prioritize range and gentle acceleration, not brute force.
• A performance e-MTB (mountain bike) demands a controller that can handle rapid, high-current bursts and adaptive terrain response.

Swapping in a different controller may result in:

• Overheating or under-performing components
• Battery drain issues
• Safety risks or voided warranties

When in doubt, chose your bike from the designed styles that best meet your needs, or consult an e-bike technician or the original equipment manufacturer (OEM).

Technically, they’re often the same thing with a bit of a nuance.

Most people use “e-bike” as a general term for any bicycle with a electric motor and a battery. But originally, the world of electric bikes started with pedelecs (ped-electric cycles), which were pedal-assist only — no throttle, just motor support while you pedal.

Here's a breakdown:

Electric Assist Bike:

• Typically refers to a ped-elec – the motor helps only when you're pedaling.

E-Bike:

• Pedal-assist bikes (ped-elecs)
• Throttle-based bikes (where you don’t have to pedal)
• Speed-pedelecs (faster versions, sometimes regulated differently)

In Canada, most provinces treat both terms as Class 1 e-bikes (pedal-assist only, max 500W, up to 32 km/h)

In Canada, an e-bike (electric bicycle) is legally defined as a bicycle that:

• Has handlebars for steering
• Has two or three wheels
• Has pedals that can be used to propel it
• Is equipped with a motor
• Has a braking system.

Important: Beyond definition, your e-bike will have speed, weight, motor-power, and other restrictions as per your regional and national governments.  For reference, Ontario Canada guidelines are provided below.

Official reference: https://www.ontario.ca/page/riding-e-bike

Always check your local and regional regulations, too.  In some areas, specific types of E-Bikes are allowed, and others are not.

Yes: “e-bike” is just short for “electric bike.”

Both terms describe a bicycle that includes:

• A motor to assist your pedaling (or drive with throttle)
• A battery to power that motor
• Controls like a display, assist levels, and sometimes a throttle

You’ll see “e-bike” used more often in casual conversation, while “electric bike” shows up in laws, product specs, or official documents.

These Class definitions come from the United States, but they’re often used in Canada - and sometimes abroad - to describe different types of e-bikes, especially by retailers and city planners.

Class 1

• Pedal-assist only (a.k.a. pedelec)
• Motor activates only while pedaling
• Max speed: 32 km/h (20 mph)

Class 2

• Throttle + pedal assist
• You can ride without pedaling using a throttle
• Max speed: 32 km/h (20 mph)

Class 3

• Pedal-assist only, but faster
• Max speed: 45 km/h (28 mph)
• Often restricted on bike paths or trails

Most Class 3 e-bikes (with 45 km/h assist) don’t qualify as legal e-bikes in Canada and may be treated as mopeds or motor vehicles, depending on your province.

A quick note about Europe:

Europe uses a different system, based on motor wattage and assist speed (not “classes”). Their rules are similar in spirit — especially around pedal-assist limits and speed caps — but e-bikes in Europe are regulated under a different standard, and high-speed or throttle bikes often fall into moped territory.